Why Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is not Mexico's most visited state, but among food lovers, it holds near-mythical status. Its indigenous culinary traditions — many stretching back thousands of years — have produced some of the most complex and distinctive food on the continent. Add in world-class mezcal, extraordinary markets, and a growing generation of chefs drawing on these traditions in creative new ways, and you have one of the most rewarding food travel destinations in the world.

The Essential Oaxacan Dishes

The Seven Moles

Oaxaca is known as "the land of seven moles," each a distinct sauce with its own personality. Mole negro is the deepest and most complex — a dark, rich sauce built from dried chilis, chocolate, and layers of spice. Mole amarillo is lighter and more herbaceous. Coloradito is approachable and slightly sweet. Eating your way through all seven over the course of a trip is a worthy and delicious goal.

Tlayudas

Oaxaca's signature dish: a large, crispy-chewy tortilla spread with black bean paste, tasajo (dried beef), Oaxacan cheese, and avocado. Best eaten at a street stall late at night, preferably standing up.

Chapulines

Toasted grasshoppers seasoned with lime, chili, and salt. More than a novelty — they're genuinely delicious, crunchy and savory, and have been eaten in Oaxaca for centuries. Try them on a tlayuda or in a taco from the market.

Memelas, Tetelas, and Empanadas de Amarillo

The markets are full of masa-based snacks that represent the living heart of Oaxacan food. Each has a slightly different form and filling. The best way to try them is to wander the market and follow the smoke and the queues.

The Markets You Must Visit

  • Mercado Benito Juárez: The central city market. Dense, colorful, and full of prepared food stalls. Look for the tlayuda ladies near the back.
  • Mercado 20 de Noviembre: The meat market attached to Juárez. Famous for its smoke-filled corridor of charcoal grills where vendors cook chorizo, tasajo, and cecina to order. Bring an appetite.
  • Etla Market (Wednesday): A regional market in the village of Etla, about 30 minutes from the city. Far less touristy, deeply authentic, and excellent for cheese and fresh produce.
  • Tlacolula Market (Sunday): One of the best regional markets in all of Mexico. The mezcal here is the real deal — sold from plastic jugs by local producers.

Mezcal: The Spirit of Oaxaca

Oaxaca produces the majority of Mexico's mezcal, and drinking it here is a completely different experience from sipping it at a bar overseas. Look for mezcal artesanal or ancestral — these designations indicate traditional production methods, small batches, and real character.

Consider visiting a palenque (distillery) in the villages of Matatlán or Miahuatlán to see the process firsthand. Many offer informal tastings. It's one of the most memorable experiences Oaxaca has to offer.

Where to Eat in Oaxaca City

Beyond the markets, Oaxaca City's restaurant scene has grown enormously. Several chefs are doing extraordinary work drawing on indigenous ingredients and techniques while embracing modern sensibilities. The streets around the Zócalo (central square) and the Jalatlaco neighborhood are particularly good for exploring.

For the best value, eat your main meal at lunch (comida corrida — set lunch menus — offer remarkable value at local restaurants) and snack your way through markets for breakfast and dinner.

Planning Your Trip

  • Best time to visit: October–November for Día de los Muertos (the food and atmosphere are extraordinary) or dry season (November–May).
  • How long: Allow at least five days to eat properly. Seven to ten days lets you explore the valleys and markets at a relaxed pace.
  • Getting there: Oaxaca City has an international airport with connections through Mexico City.

Oaxaca rewards slow travel and hungry curiosity. Every market stall, village mezcal producer, and family restaurant has a story. The food is the story.